Antik Batik - the whole world in one collection

Interviewed: Elena Olkhovskaya

Gabriella Cortese and her creations are loved by fashionistas from around the world. Monik Beluchi, Vannes Paradis, Uma Thurman and other world celebrities are especially fond of Antik Batik collections. What is the secret of the incredible popularity of this brand, which appeared on the horizon of High Fashion only in 1992? For answers to this and other questions, I turned to Gabrielle Cortese, who arrived in Dubai for the opening ceremony of her first brand boutique in the Jumeirah Beach Residence. After all, who can know about a brand better than its creator?

Gabriella, how and why did you decide to create your own fashion brand?

Firstly, I believe that you do not need to look back at what has already been done or is being done by others; you need to do your own. Indeed, fashion brands, you are right, today there are a great many. I am Italian, I live in France, travel a lot around the world. In different countries I had to meet people who are engaged in a variety of types of creativity - painting on fabric, embroidery and so on. This inspired me, and I decided to create something similar - with an abundance of hand embroidery and other types of decor, only in a European manner. So the Antik Batik brand was born.

Is the technique of hot and cold batik (silk or cotton painting) widespread in the countries of the Middle East, Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia? Where did you first get acquainted with this type of applied art?

The very first and most vivid impression on me was made by batiks in Indonesia. They are slightly different in performance from those that I later saw in India, for example. But in none of the batiks that I saw there was even a hint of modernity. All of them were very traditional, each for their own country, and recognizable. I tried to adapt what I saw to modern fashion. I enjoy working with silk and cotton. Especially with silk, because it is an amazing material that allows you to change the texture of light and shadow when embroideries or paintings are made on it. This is the corporate identity of Antik Batik.

If you adapt everything to modern fashion trends, where did the name Antik come from in the brand name, hinting at the presence of some antiquity in it?

I think that you should always look ahead, while looking back at the past. It seems to me that the main thing is to be able to maintain a balance between different eras. Indeed, sometimes even the ornaments of ancient embroideries can be beaten so that they "sound" like something new in the fashion world. Hence the hint of antiquity.

Where are the main Antik Batik facilities located?

Most of the embroidery we order in India, but our production is located in many countries of the world. When it comes to handmade clothes, you can make them almost anywhere. It all depends on the collection.

If we talk about the collection that you present today in your Dubai boutique, what is the most interesting about it?

This is a mixture of different cultures and eras. Here you can see both the Art Deco and Art Nouveau styles. I like Hungarian motifs, and they are clearly visible throughout the fall-winter collection. It has unique prints and interesting color combinations, ethnic embroideries and other decorative elements that our customers like.

The traditions of the Hungarian folk costume are in many respects similar to Russian, Ukrainian, Belarusian. Have you ever wanted to create such a "Slavic" collection?

I have been to Russia and Ukraine, and I think that much can be learned there for future collections. Probably someday I will be engaged in the creation of something like that. It would be interesting.

Gabriella, is there something specially designed for Dubai fashionistas in your collections?

I think all women in Dubai are great fashionistas. They want to look fashionable, beautiful, sexy. Of course, not all things they can put on themselves unconditionally, but they really love everything bright, color, originally decorated. Therefore, I believe that Antik Batik has great potential here.

Do you plan to enter the Russian market?

The opening of a boutique in Russia is in my immediate plans. I really want the Antik Batik brand to appear in Moscow. And I'm happy when I think about it.

Is it difficult for you to compete with couturier men in the world of haute couture?

I think that I occupy my own niche in the world of fashion, so I’m unlikely to seriously compete with anyone. Sometimes it seems to me that couturier men create clothes for women that are good for the stage, and do not think about the fact that a woman should look elegant and harmonious in everyday life. I try to fill this gap.

What is the most important and interesting moment for you in creating a new collection?

I think the moment when the finished product leaves the factory, after hard and many days of work on them. And also the moment when I put the whole collection together and understand that all the things in it are perfectly combined with each other.

Who helps you in creating new collections?

Today, Antik Batik employs 50 people. As you know, the company is small, and therefore we all help each other.

Do you know Russian fashion designers?

I know several people, however, I find it difficult to name them by name. You have such difficult names. There are Russian designers and artists living in France. For me they are a whole world or even an explosion of new emotions and impressions. Many of them have something to learn. And it's not just about fashion.

Are there any Russian buyers among your brand fans?

So far there are not many of them, but we hope to attract the attention of Russian buyers to Antik Batik. First, I want to invite them to our boutique in Dubai. Especially popular with my customers in different countries of the world are mini dresses and tunics in ethnic style. Maybe they will also appeal to Russian-speaking clients. I would really like that.

Gabriella, what do you think should dominate the women's wardrobe - pants or skirts?

It all depends on the specific situation. We live in the modern world, and practicality plays a big role in it. In our life there is an office, metro or other types of public transport, at the same time there are restaurants, theaters, opening days. Pants took a strong place in the everyday wardrobe of each of us, but in the evening I urge all women to wear elegant evening dresses. After all, we are women, and our vocation is to be feminine.

What details of the wardrobe do you, as a designer, primarily indicate that you are facing a well-dressed woman?

First of all, a woman should be comfortable in what she is wearing. Each woman has her own personality, her own type of figure, growth, taste, so some formulas or generalizations, I think, are hardly appropriate. Probably, high heels discipline, allow you to keep your posture. The belt emphasizes the waist well, therefore it is also important. Yes, makeup should be delicate and not particularly noticeable. Then, most likely, in front of me is a well-dressed and tastefully dressed woman.

Gabriella, let me wish you success and thank you for the conversation. We look forward to meeting you here in Dubai.

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